The West Highland Way Part 8 - Dreams of Lemonade

Let's pick this up from where we left it. It's midday in Kinlochleven, I finished my chips and had to make a decision.

1. Go left and finish The West Highland Way?
2. Go right and setup camp for the night?
3. Go straight ahead and spend the day in a pub?

A few people who know me, may be surprised to hear I chose left. No pub or camping, I got back on the trail.

The next stage was originally planned as an entire day but I was feeling good and my confidence levels were high. I had conquered The Devil's Staircase and still had half a day of daylight left.

I make my way out of Kinlochleven and pick up the West Highland way. A narrow track heading away from the road and up.

Now up is not a problem, I've just done Satan's Step Class and nailed it. How steep can this be?

Ok! This is a little steep. Not to worry, I got this.

Ok, maybe I don't got this. The phone does not do it justice, this is seriously steep.

I've done some steep paths in my time and this is easily top 3. Maybe a belly full of chips was not such a good idea. That's a lot of extra weight I am trying to carry up this insanely steep path.

A flat bit! Yeyy!

It may be a rocky water crossing but it is still level. Oh sweet sweet level ground.

Now I know why our model builder had this part as single day on it's own. I put my phone away at this point. I decided to go for it, sweat dripping, legs screaming at me but I wanted to get this climb done.

I make it out of the hot humid forest and that beast of a climb. That was steep folks. I pick my head up and look back at Kinlochleven. At least the steep bit is done.

Right, time to turn and face the next part...Oh come on!!

Really? It just keeps going up!

It looks lovely but this path is relentless. If this path was any steeper it would be a ladder. I think I saw a couple of West highland Wayer's roped up. Seriously though, joking aside this is a steep old path. So be warned people.

Ok, now the steep part is over. Let's properly enjoy that view.

Maybe I should give my phones zoom function a go.

That pub's down there somewhere.

 I don't regret my choice. It's a beautiful day, I'm dripping with sweat and my thighs are on fire. Eyes on the prize, the end of The West Highland Way is within reach.

Just look at that sky. What a beautiful day to be in the stunning Scottish Highlands.

But more importantly

Look at that path. It doesn't go up.

Seriously that last part made the Devil's Staircase look like the Devil's Escalators.

It is a nice undulating farmers track from here on. 

Apart from the heat, this is an easy section. Speaking of the heat, I need to keep an eye on my water supply.

That bottle of apple juice never made it this far. The empty bottle did because you leave no trace people. Seriously I hate people that take stuff into the mountains and leave it. Take your rubbish back with you. Sorry, rant over.

Back to walking through beautiful scenery.

Putting some distance behind me now on this much easier terrain.

Time for a break now

A little rest is always good to take on some water and take in the scenery. 

Let my feet breathe, soak in the moment then hit the trail again.

Boots back on, now let's go see what's around that bend.

As I round that bend and over that crest it opens up.

Paths like this are why I love the West Highland Way. 

Also, don't forget to take a look back once in a while.

When out in the hills and mountains, I often like to turn around.

Multi-day hiking may be about pushing forward and covering the distance, but look at that view behind me. I think you will agree that it was worth a stop and a little look back.

This was another solitary moment on the West Highland Way. A short video below to show you.

 

 

 A quick little 360 with my phone then back to walking.

As you may remember from the Rannoch Moor section earlier in this series of blogs, I do love being on my own out in the mountains.

Although at this point, an ice-cream van wouldn't have gone a miss.

Because I'm adding this last section onto the day, I need to keep up a good pace.

As you can see, I still have a fair distance to cover.

It was at this point when I realised I had a problem. A problem that could become serious.

My water supply is getting low, it's very hot and I do not have a water filter. The filter is with the part of the team that dropped out earlier in the adventure. I had a feeling that little oversight might come back to bite me.

I could turn around but decide to just ration my water and push on.

I wonder if anyone is home...Nope, nobodys in.

That is Tigh-na-sleubhaich (I don't know how to pronounce it either) in the above picture. The ruins of an old cottage you will pass on this stunning route.

At some point, people lived out here. The postman must have hated those people.

That sun is really beating down now. It became the hottest day of the entire adventure. Even hotter than the scorcher we had on day 1.

Probably not helped by how high up and exposed I am on this path.

The trick is to just plod on and not think about cold drinks.

Well these guys are not helping me, they keep saying "Baaaar".

I'm sure I will find one in Fort William but still got a way to go yet.

That is looking like the end of this stunning but very hot valley.

I am expecting a change in scenery soon. Always exciting to see what is next.

Getting closer to seeing what is around the other side of this mountain range.

I was met with some much needed shade from some cloud cover and a change in scenery.

That must be Ben Nevis or at least part of the same range. That is roughly the right direction.

At this point on my adventure, the water situation had gotten much worse. I had a small amount left in 1 bottle. Not good in this heat especially while hiking.

I did think of setting up camp near a water source and getting the camp stove out. That would have been the right move. Filter some water through a sock, boil it to make it safe.

I will be totally honest with you, I was borderline dehydrated. Not thinking straight and suffering from a bit of summit fever (knowing the end is close) I just kept going.

I had a mouth full of water left. I was not feeling great but just had to focus. Find something else to think about...

Yeyyy another small wooden bridge!

I may be dehydrated but I still deliver for all you small wooden bridge fans.

This section from Kinlochleven to Fort William has nothing. No water taps, no shops, just what you bring with you. So make sure you have enough water or ideally a water filter.

Through this final section the phone spent most of the time in my pocket, I just managed a few pictures.

I did take a picture of water. I wonder what was going through my mind that made me stop here.

I was not thinking to much about pictures or truly enjoying the scenery as much as I normally would.

I tell you what I was thinking about. A big bottle of lemonade. I just kept dreaming of downing a bottle of sprite and eating an ice cream. I can't remember the last time I even thought about Sprite, but today it was all I could think about.

I'm pretty sure Ben Nevis is over there. There is a campsite at the bottom of Ben Nevis and that campsite has a shop. Oooooh maybe that shop sells Sprite.

I had told myself if the situation gets really bad, I have a cut off when the stove comes out and I look for water.

I was so close now that it was hard to overcome the summit fever of reaching the end. Also a campsite shop will sell something nicer than boiled river water.

Onwards it is.

A bit of very welcome shade and a very interesting set of stairs. If I wasn't so tired and thirsty, I would have checked them out.

I may not have explored the stairs but they are next to a river. Now you may be thinking "that's a good place he could stop and just make do with boiled river water for the night".

Or you may be a regular reader of this blog and you are thinking "A small river? that can only mean...Yes!

a small wooden bridge".

Soak it in, for this is the last small wooden bridge of the West Highland Way. Go on, just take a moment. Go back up to the picture, I'll wait for you...

We good? Ok, I think that's enough now. I really have to move on, we are so close to the end.

Small bridge fans can stop reading here, nothing else for you in this blog. I cross the bridge and push on still thinking of making it to the campsite shop before closing.

No pictures for a while but I will give you a quick summary.

Undulating forest track, rocky under foot in parts, some short very steep sections and no water left in my bottles. I was not thinking of pics, just getting to the end.

Then I recognise the part of the forest I'm in. I see the track up Ben Nevis in the distance. I had walked that path to the summit of Ben Nevis a few years earlier. I know where I am.

I can see a road through the trees. That road leads to Glen Nevis Campsite. When you reach the road, it is left to Fort William or right to Glen Nevis.

I went right and hit that camp shop. No Sprite but they had lemonade. I bought a big bottle of lemonade, 4 bottles of water, a bottle of orange juice and a Solero.

I've never, ever...EVER had a nicer bottle of lemonade, orange juice or a Solero before in my life.

You may be looking at the above pic wondering why I've pitched my tent. Surely Fort William and the finish is just a couple of miles down the road.

Well you are right, but I was done. Seriously I had nothing left.

I barely had enough energy to pitch my tent. So I decided to bed down, rehydrate and sleep. Fort William will still be there in the morning.

I was originally going to reach the finish tomorrow anyway. So back on schedule.

I woke up feeling much better and only had one issue. I had a stone stuck between my toes. I flicked the stone out. Then I noticed the little stone moved.

Wait a minute. I'm pretty sure stones don't move and they don't have heads and legs either. 94 miles with no ticks, then 2 miles to go and one of the little buggers chows down on my foot while I slept.

Tent packed, rubbish in the bin, both water bottles filled (for just 2 miles, I know but it's habit at this point) and I head for the finish.

I made it to the finish. well the first finish. This is the end but not the end, end. Let me explain.

The original end of The West Highland Way was at the visitor centre by the roundabout at the start of Fort William.

Now somebody decided to move it into the town, you know, past all the shops. Just saying.

So That's end number 1 so lets got to end number 2 so no arguing. 

and there we have it, the "new" end of The West Highland Way.

Meet "Sore Feet" the statue of the fellow walker that greats you at the end.

Look at that heavenly glow over my rucksack. I made it.

It's a shame that the rest of Team Bowfell were not here to enjoy it with me. It would have been good to share this moment.

What a feeling though. I walked from Milngavie to Fort William through the stunning Scottish Highlands.

96 miles of drama, excitement, sore feet, wet feet, lime Calypo ice lollies, incredible views, sausage rolls, almost becoming king of Scotland, lovely people, a few nice pubs, a staircase belonging to an unsavoury character and who can forget lots of small wooden bridges.

Feel free to leave a comment if you enjoyed this series of blogs. Or if you have any questions about the West Highland way I will try my best to answer them.

Well only one thing remains. A tradition of The West Highland Way and a good way to end this blog.

My hand on a bald man's head.

 

< Part 7